Ciao Bella Baltimore
Thimbleweed park gameplay. It's easy to see why Little Italy's Ciao Bella attracts celebrity diners such as Olympian Michael Phelps—and it's even easier to taste why. Chef Tony Gambino is simply a magician when it comes to Italian cuisine. His creations range from traditional eggplant parmigiana and house-made gnocchi in vodka sauce to funkier dishes, such as escargot in a garlic and basil-butter marinade.
CiaoBella236 South High Street,Baltimore410-685-7733Baltimore’s Little Italy has seendramatic changes since the 80s. The area once flourished with Italianrestaurants block after block. You could easily find dishes from the oldcountry that are not always the easiest to produce at home. Over the years, toomany of these great places from the Rat Pack era have closed. Several of thesurvivors still churn out the basics, but not with the same flare and flavor Igrew up with. Fortunately, there are still a few that carry on the tradition ofthe old ways.CiaoBella, operated by brother and sister team Tony and Lisa Gambino, continues tosatisfy with each visit. Don’t expect to see secret meetings of thefive families.
Do expect witty banter and a good cocktail from Lisa, along withgreat food.Theappetizers are focused on fresh ingredients from the sea. From their ClamsCasino, with the bacon balancing the briny clams, to their Shrimp Oreganati(shrimp in a warm garlic butter sauce), you can enjoy a variety of the ocean’sbest comfort food.Weshared the Seafood Tetrazzini for the next course. The bounty of shrimp andcrab meat bathed in a lobster brandy cream sauce was heavenly.
Thewell-balanced flavors weren’t overly rich. Instead, they accentuated thesweetness of the shellfish. The fresh linguini swirling in the decadentcreaminess was like having dessert at the same time. As filling as this dish ison its own, I was craving more boozy sauces.Theland animals were equally great. Chicken Marsala in that sweet, savory marsalawine sauce with just the right consistency, more syrupy than watered down likeso many places that fail on this dish. The Veal Franchese’s pairing of sweetsherry with a tinge of lemon equally satisfied.
I suggest asking for your sidepasta to be served with the same sauce, although Tony’s marinara is still awin.If you somehow still have room after downing thegenerous portions, cap the meal with a hit of espresso and a cannoli. No matterhow little or how much you try, Ciao Bella retains that taste of Baltimore’sLittle Italy from an era faded out by all the new development from thiscentury.
- Valet parking
- Dress code: Casual
- Reservations suggested
* Click here for rating key
Ciao Bella Restaurant Review: Hey, good lookin’! Ciao Bella (translation: “Hi, beautiful”) does indeed have a white-tablecloth prettiness suitable for first dates and other momentous occasions. But, at heart, it is a true Little Italian, turning out the kind of hearty, mama’s-kitchen dishes that a generation or two ago would have been served on red-and-white-checked tablecloths. Just take a whiff when you walk in the door: if the garlicky aroma doesn’t make you hungry, you’re just not in the mood for Italian food. Tony Gambino’s menu is classic rather than innovative; a warm, napkin-wrapped loaf of bread and a dish of seasoned olive oil set the stage for such usual suspects as clams casino and fried calamari, Caesar and caprese salads, chicken piccata and linguine with white clam sauce. Not-so-Italian-ordinary choices like crab toast or escargot are also offered. Portions are more than generous, and the waiter will leave the Parmesan right on the table, rather than doling out a mere sprinkle. Add a glass of Pinot Noir and maybe a cannoli, and you have a meal that’s the stuff of happy memories, if not gastronomic greatness. |
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