Mickey Boots For Hunting
I use the Cabelas Saskatchewan boots. I love them!That being said I will start with whats inside the boot. For years I had cold feet. I finally figured out that my feet were always wet from sweating. My problem wasn't keeping warm. I'm always fairly warm, but my feet would sweat and I needed good socks to keep my feet dry and breathing. I found I stay warmer with a proper sock combo in lighter boots unless its super cold.I would start by figuring out why his feet are cold.
Gokey leather boots offer the versatility and comfort you seek for every day, and any destination. Pull on a pair of distinctive Gokey boots and discover just how comfortable—and attractive—leather hunting boots can be.
More insulation or heaters aren't always better if the cause is wetness. A good combo would include a base layer sock for wicking followed by an insulation layer sock. Synthetics and wool are the best. FInd the right combination of insulation layers and you won't need a heavy pac boot until the temps truly require it. The military surplus Mickey Mouse boots have always done the trick for me.
The white ones are warmer than the black ones. Also make sure they say Beta on the bottom. Those are military issue and not knock-offs.Agree (but I got the black ones)! I've had my mickeys for almost 20 years and paid around $25 back then. Fleet Farm sells them for about $60 now.
I'm going to purchase another pair once they have my size in as I finally put a hole in my old ones. They are heavy and have horrible grips but neither play a big factor from sitting in a stand all day. For ice fishing, you just need some cleats.All-in-all, best boot for the money hands down! Check out the rechargeable lithium ion heated insoles from the C store.I was looking at them in the Late Season Hunting catalog last night. Seemed like they might be a decent option to buying new boots. Not that they're cheap, but maybe cheaper than a top of the line new pair of boots.
And for the price, I'm thinking they're probably made well.I'm considering giving them a try.Oh yeah, they come with a remote for off/med/hi heat. Can last 6 hours on high. Is another remote a good thing for a guy?? I was in the same boat a couple years ago and, after much research I went with a pair of Cabela's Inferno boots. 2000 grams of thinsulate, light and very comfortable.I dropped a pair of thinsulate thermal insoles in them too.Not because they needed them, it just added a nice layer of cushion. Most days it's just a pair of Smartwool socks, nothing else. Other days a pair of regular old sweat socks is just fine.Have never needed toe warmers or anything else.
In all the conditions you can imagine, my feet haven't been cold in 2 two years. Besides good boots one thing I am considering for this fall is to modify my climbing stand a little.
I was thinking of attaching some sort of thin foam material to the base platform. Boots sitting on cold metal will lose heat quicker than if you have some sort of extra separation/insulation.I was thinking something like a foam yoga mat or something thicker if I can find it.
It might also help make my stand base less slippery if it snows or rains and it should help make it quieter when moving my feet around or when I inevitably drop something on it while up in the tree. Picked up an 8x14 fish house frame with a 4 ft v front. I am building it this spring and summer but wondering about the roof. My first thought was built rafters with center gussets to run wiring but not sure how to tie those in to the V front. Also I am planning on running diamond plating up the first 2 ft but the steel siding i plan to put on comes in 4 ft widths so the side walls would have to be 6ft.
Not sure if this will work. Especially with the roof design? Thought about a flat roof and spray foaming it too but dont know how that will work with condensation. Yup, scratch away. Like Borch typed.
Scratch scratch, pause, Scratch, scratch pause. I'll lightly purr or cluck on and off while doing that too. Maybe a very light set of yelps.
Somedays that is what my entire calling consists of. With all the guys out there calling loudly and frequently as if turkeys are deaf i start to lean towards very subtle, very quiet and infrequent calling. Mostly because all i hunt is public land. As the season progresses my decoy techniques change as well.
Early on i use a hen/jake combo. Man it can be deadly. But after a few weeks on public land every bird has seen 200 decoys. So i'll pare it down to 1 hen or maybe just the jake if i'm still bowhunting.
If i'm shotgunning, no decoys is often the way to go.Early mornings unless i have a Tom that is obviously working towards me I call to the hens with the idea that where they lead, he will follow. If you can get a hen calling to you, mimic her exactly, cut her off, mimic her. It might anger her and she'll come in. I had one hen last year who HATED ME. Literally every time i called she'd sound off and work into me. She must have seen my decoys 4 times and yelled at me every time. I'm convinced the combination of us yelling at each other lead to so much of my success last year.
The Toms just couldn't resist investigating what the flying heck was going on over there.instead of a wing i use my hat. It can be flapped against your leg in a pretty genuine sounding representation of a wing flapping. I've done the wing thing, the hat just makes it one less thing to carry around.